Monday, March 4, 2013

The Dragon Mountains


Drakensburg Mountains: a mountain range stretching over part of South Africa and Lesotho, home to the second tallest waterfall in the world, the setting that J.R.R Toklen based the Lord of the Ring novels on, and the most breath taking and mysterious place in the world.  This is where I spent my weekend. 

The clouds were so cool!



The Drakensburg Mountains

We left Gabs and traveled by our favorite form of public transportation, bus, to Johannesburg where we rented a mini bus that we decided to call Greg.  Greg was sort of the coolest car around. 

So we packed up all our stuff and headed to a small village just outside of Winterton.  There we met a Peace Corp volunteer named Kristen that we ended up staying with for 2 nights to get the Peace Corp experience since quite a few of the exchange students in Africa are interested in Peace Corp (including me).  Her site is at the base of the mountains in a small community.  She lives with a host family, has her own room, showers in a bucket, has no fridge, uses candles for lighting at night, and her bathroom is a pit latrine about 30 feet from her room. 
this is Kristens room

She has adopted a cat, its three kittens and a dog that is owned by her host family but have learned that the American is nicer to animals then the locals, so they hang with her.  Anyways we got to her site pretty late that night so we just crashed on her floor.  In the morning, we got to tag along with her to see her site, sort of “a day in the life of a peace corp volunteer.”  We started by taking about 100 knit teddy bears to the elementary school and giving them out to all the pre-school and kindergarten kids.  They were so cute; they sang songs for us, started naming their bears and were very excited to see us. 





Then we went to the site of the rehab clinic, when I say this day was almost perfectly planned just for me, I am not kidding.  It is a physical therapy clinic where people from all over can come and get exercises and different stretches to help improve their quality of life.  They let me sit in and watch; I saw people that were HIV positive and as a result had ended up with TB or a stroke or things like that.  There was a 26 year old man, HIV positive that had a stoke as a result and had very little muscle control, there was a 10 year old boy that had Cerebral Palsy and couldn’t walk (his mother carried him everywhere and he wasn’t exactly small), there were multiple women that were stuck in wheelchairs because of their TB, they had lost control of their legs (wheelchairs are not easy to maneuver though because the ground is dirt and rocks so they are mostly bed ridden except on clinic days) and there were even some deaf people that came in to set up appointments with the Audiologist.  If this wasn’t enough of a moving experience, I got to have a long talk with a 26-year-old girl whose mom was one of the TB patience and hear her story.  She works so hard for her mom.  Then I got to tag along on a home visit where me and two of the clinic ladies went to the home of a bed-ridden women who had been in and out of the hospital, had lost all control of her body from the chest down, had some sort of bladder infection, was in massive amounts of pain and was laying on the floor with nothing but a blanket to cover her.  It was heart wrenching because all I could do was watch.  I couldn’t help her, I couldn’t fix her, I couldn’t even speak her language, all I could do was be someone that cared- just a smile and human touch.

After leaving that site almost in tears, we went back to the high school where we got to hang out with an 8th grade class.  Kristen has a program called grass-root soccer where she focuses on HIV/AIDS awareness through games and activities.  That day we had them pass a ball behind their backs and when we said stop, they had to guess who had the ball- and it generally took them a while because you can’t tell, then we related that to how you can’t tell who has AIDS by just looking at them.  We spent an hour doing that and then went to a girls club that she started where a safe space had been created for girls to talk about everything from sex to peer pressure to hygiene. Everything. We talked about peer pressure and made friendship bracelets.  The girls there were so intrigued by us whities though it was crazy, they kept asking me questions and touching my hair- they really couldn’t figure out why I was waiting until I got married to have sex.  Anyways that was our day on site and it really couldn’t have been much better.

The next morning we woke up to find Greg the Bus with a flat tire stuck in mud because of the crazy thunderstorm that had hit the night before.  So we spent the morning trying to find/change the tire, push the car out of the mud and down the hill to the gravel road which took a few hours and a lot of mud got caked all over everyone.

But finally with the help of some nice locals and the sense of humor our travel group had, we got on our way to the Amphitheater Backpackers Hostel in the mountains.  Too bad for me I got hit with the flu hard core.  I spent most of my day in the bathroom, completely cleared out my system to say the least.  Everyone went on a small day hike and I stayed in our dorm room trying just about everything to make my stomach not feel like exploding.  Not a win, but luckily I was feeling good enough the next day to go on the day hike called Sentential Peak.  It is about 15km (took about 7 hours) we got to go to the top of the Amphitheater Mountains, hike into Lesotho, see the 2nd highest waterfall in the world (and put our feet in it) and climb down the side of the mountains with ladders and ropes.   It was the most beautiful thing in the entire world.  Our guide was this crazy mountaineer who was in the South African Army during the Apartheid and faked schizophrenia to get out of it because he didn’t agree with the system.  Anyways we literally scaled our way to the top of this peak and it was cloudy so when we stood on the edge, we looked out and saw nothing. It was the most mysterious and intriguing thing in the entire world to look out, know that it is a huge cliff but not be able to see anything.  We waded in the water at the edge of the second highest waterfall in the world and got back down the mountain using these super sketchy metal ladders that were attached to the side of the rocks. This hike was like being in paradise. The air was so clean, the landscape was breathtaking and the mountains are said to be the oldest in the world, and home to the San people, which were the first people on the earth. Then it stared to rain and guess what? We go soaked but it was well worth it.  We spent the evening making quesadillas, attempting to play ping-pong, failing and just sitting around talking.
one of the ladders we scaled

hiking crew

on our way up- got all the way to the top of the mountain in front of us.

seconds highest waterfall in the world

just another day in paradise

just stickin our feet in the 2nd highest falls


indigenous lesotho cattle farmers

the way back down was the best

the travel group and peace corp volunteer
The next morning I totally relapsed and got sick again but it was okay because it was our travel day, back to Gaborone.  We went to get in our car, only to find that Greg had pooped out and died on us.  We had to find someone with jumper cables and jump the car, which luckily was successful and we were on our way! It seriously was just an amazing weekend with amazing people.  Our group: Anna, Nicole, Katie, Hunter, Sara, Brandie and me. Moral of this weekend:  I will be applying to be a Peace Corp volunteer in about 2 years, I don’t like being sick, and I really loving hiking (which is new because I used to hate it).